Grekland – Tinos

Domaine de Kalathas

Med start 2011 har Jérome Binda skapat ett visionärt vingårdsprojekt i Kalathas-bergen på den egeiska ön Tinos. Druvsorterna är de allra mest lokala – samt från de närmaste öarna i Kykladerna – och växer i phylloxera-fria sandiga granitjordar med stark påverkan av vindar från hav och berg.

Domänen har en hel del sekelgamla rankor som kryper utmed marken på egen rotstock, och Jérome har initierat ett program som går ut på att bevara öns vitikulturella arv genom en lokal utveckling som både involverar den yngre generationen och gamla traditionella odlingsmetoder.

Jordbruket är certifierat ekologiskt med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur, och sedan 2016 framställs vinerna helt utan tillsatser.  Allt som allt blir produktionen knappt 9000 flaskor om året.

Mer om kulturen kring mat och vin på Tinos.

Viner

Sainte-Obéissance 2018
Namn:Sainte-Obéissance 2018
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Vitt
Druvsort:Aspro potamisi (80%) och rozaki (20%) från 100-åriga rankor
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av vittrad granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:Spontan jäsning och arton månader på jästfällningen. Buteljerat utan klarning eller filtrering.

Made of direct press of feet-trod Aspro Potamisi (80%) and Rozaki (20%) grapes, each being fermented separately then assembled to undergo malolactic fermentation together, this cuvée, which is made each year, sometimes keeps a little residual sugars (4 to 6 g/L), sometimes is bone-dry. It stays 16 months on the fine lees.

"Sainte-Obéissance — Holy Obedience in French, the name of the small mountain chapel at the foot of the Domaine's slopes — is typical of the "umami" fingerprint of the domaine's wines, being very versatile in terms of food-pairing, accompanying a whole range of flavours, including spicyness to iodine-dominated ones. Its discrete almond bitterness is balanced with the saline touch which characterizes the very terroir of Falatados.

Memory of sugar — mostly displayed through roasted pineapple aroma — is a notion often employed to describe one of the features of Aspro Potamisi variety, which gives way after a fruitful mouth to a restricted acidity in aftertaste, sustaining the appetite-enhancing drive that has made this cuvée fit to join the wine list of gastronomic restaurants such as Michelin-starred Sushi Nakazawa or nordic Aquavit in NYC, Hunan or the Greenhouse Mayfair in London, acclaimed Relæ in Copenhagen."
Tillsatser:Inga tillsatser
Volymer:750ml
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10+12 2018
Namn:10+12 2018
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Vitt
Druvsort:Aspro potamisi, från gamla rankor
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av vittrad granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:Direkt pressning. Två olika tankar blandade efter avslutad jäsning. Ingen klarning eller filtrering.

"Hundred percent direct press of Aspro Potamisi, this vintage of 10+12 — named after the two vats originally blended after fermentation — displays the clear and constant varietal typicities of the Aspro Potamisi : its fresh almond and pineapple aromas, wild quince slight tanicity, a light bitterness on the afterpalate and a sharp, iodine finish. These features contribute in offering a deep, gastronomic white with a complete body and alcoholic sustain expressing both a precise maturity and the richness of its granitic terroir, yet with utmost fluidity and sapidity enhancing, especially showing when paired, for example, with seafood like scallops, grilled swordfish or squid, dried meats, refined sheep milk cheeses, bitter chocolate deserts."
Tillsatser:Inga tillsatser
Volymer:750ml
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Vorias 2017
Namn:Vorias 2017
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Vitt
Druvsort:Rozaki, från 50-150 år gamla "krypande" rankor
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av vittrad granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:This cuvée is the Kalathas take on the Rozaki variety, a particularly low-acidity table grape, widely spread on the island which "exported" a lot of these generous and sunburnt clusters of blonde egg-shaped fruits to the mainland until the eighties.

"While it perfectly illustrates the challenge of a non-sulfur winemaking process when dealing with unusually high pHs (its pH regularly flirts with 3,9 to 4 !), the choice is here is to bring forth salinity with the help of a prolongated work with its fine lees. Since 2015 the Domaine has started the endeavour to vinify this variety "in purezza" for the first time. This variety despite its name does not produce a rosé wine but rather a light blonde cristalline juice.

Aromas of tender musk, peach flowers, and a slightly citrusy finish characterize this smooth and saline juice, which bears the name of our Northern wind, the Vorias.This wine is a perfect starter but also pairs very well with vegetarian cuisine, steamed greens, fresh low-fat cheeses as well as delicate fish or white meat. It is on the list of famous natural wine focused restaurants Racines NY in Manhattan, Rimessa Roscioli in Rome or La Strega in Göteborg."
Tillsatser:Inga tillsatser
Volymer:1500ml
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O Zontanos 2016
Namn:O Zontanos 2016
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Vitt
Druvsort:Aspro potamisi
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:Sen skörd av mycket mogna druvor. Långsam spontan jäsning och lagring på jästfällningen. Ingen klarning eller filtrering.

"During the harvest of 2016, an extremely dry year on Tinos, there were some very long alcoholic fermentations with the last, very ripe pickings of Aspro Potamisi. Even the old vines were exhausted and the juice had begun retreating from the roasted clusters. While self-stabilizing after more than 14 months, this micro-cuvée stayed with 7,5 g of residual sugars and its alcohol contained at 14,2%. It was named O Zontanos, "the Live One" in Greek, in rememberance of both the stuggle of the fruit and the lively vibrancy of the sugars encapsulated in it.

Displaying an intense solar character, its depth, which came forth without maceration but only as a result of a very slow fermentation, this wine is particularly satisfactory with crayfish, langoustines, deeply spiced Indian or Thai curries, and a whole range of oriental black soy based dishes. Raw-milk profound cow and goat cheeses, aged or dried, praline pies and dried fruit are also quite a match with the Zontanos."
Restsötma:7,5 g/l
Alkohol:14,2 %
Volymer:750ml
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Notias 2018
Namn:Notias 2018
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Orange
Druvsort:Aspro potamisi
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:Spontan jäsning av hela bär varvat med hela klasar. Arton månaders lagring på jästfällningen. Buteljerat utan föregående klarning eller filtrering.

"This cuvée is a macerated berries and whole clusters orange wine made from 100 % Aspro Potamisi. It aged 18 months on its lees and displays a dense, savoury, deep aromatic profile which encompasses the whole spectrum of the vegetal biotope of the vineyard. Tinian lavender, helychrisum, wild mint mingle with iodine and it is set to age in bottle for quite a few more years, yet it is delivering a sustained length and complexity which enable this wine to allow great pairings with rich, traditional roasts, stews of meat or fish - always at room temperature and caraffed like a red wine. One great take with Notias is fresh and simply grilled crayfish."
Volymer:750ml
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Pappou! 2018
Namn:Pappou! 2018
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Rosé
Druvsort:Aspro Potamisi och rozaki (gröna druvor, 40% vardera) och mavro potamisi (blå druvsort, 20%) samplanterade
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av vittrad granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:Spontan jäsning av alla druvorna tillsammans. Buteljerat utan föregående klarning eller filtrering.

"This cuvée is a field-blend of three of the Tinian varieties, two whites (Aspro Potamisi and Rozaki each for 40% in the blend) and a red (Mavro Potamisi for 20%), and is a tribute to the traditional farmer's wine of the island where all varieties were assembled to produce each family wine to go through the winter, the vessel being emptied for the Easter feast along with the roasting of the lamb. Pappou means Grandfather in Greek, the wine is named after this very important figure of the family, on this island as in every culture of the world, being the transmitter, together with the Yaya (the Grandmother) of the traditions.

This wine is crafted following our pick on the three grapes' common moment of satisfactory maturity, co-fermented and aged twelve months on the lees.

Halfways through a primeur light red in an amazing deep blush hue, and a savoury rosé, it is envisaged as a refined thirst-quenching wine which embodies both the rusticity of the windswept mineral environment and the fresh, wild aromatic plants that are everywhere in the vineyards. Grilled mushrooms, white meat, crispy dough, river fish are among the usual pairings which suit this cuvée."
Tillsatser:Inga tillsatser
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To Kokkinaki 2019
Namn:To Kokkinaki 2019
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Rosé
Druvsort:Mavro potamisi, koumariano och kondoura (tre blå druvsorter)
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av vittrad granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:Spontan jäsning av alla druvorna tillsammans, med inledande fottrampning. Buteljerat utan föregående klarning eller filtrering.

"Literally meaning the "Little Red", this deep rosé, or light red, is a co-fermented blend, in even proportions, of the three Tinian red varieties. Slowly feet-stomped in the fouloir, Mavro Potamisi plays for tannic structure, Koumariano delivers its complex and rich fruit body, and Kondoura the crispiness which renders this wine a perfect symbol of what the island can offer in terms of freshness and elegance, at the opposite of what is still too often expected of a Southern Mediterranean red wine : over-extraction, heaviness, oak-masked burnt aromas. Here the research is definitely about drinkability, and the Kokkinaki is emblematic of the health-focused wines of the Domaine, where the total non-added-sulfur approach demonstrates the ability to offer a wine entirely devoted to display flower and fruit without any screen or obstacle in the way. Also following a red thread of salinity, this cuvée pairs extremely well with salumeria, cured meat, grilled red meat, game and sea fish, rock fish soup, smoked preparations of vegetables... The Kokkinaki has been chosen for the wine-pairing menu at two-starred David Toutain's restaurant in Paris, and is a regular of the wine list at Altro Paradiso in NY, Avli in Chicago, Tipografia Alimentare in Milan."
Tillsatser:Inga tillsatser
Volymer:750ml
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To Kokkino 2019
Namn:To Kokkino 2019
Vinbonde:Domaine de Kalathas
Region:Grekland - Tinos
Ursprung:Kalathas, Tinos
Färg:Rött
Druvsort:Koumariano (55%) och mavro potamisi (45%) från gamla rankor
Jord:Steniga terrasser på 320-400 meters höjd med sandig jordmån av vittrad granit
Odling:Ekologisk (Dionet) med inslag av biodynamik och permakultur
Uppväxt:Avstjälkning för hand varvat med hela klasar. Spontan jäsning med "macération carbonique" samt "semi-carbonique" - alltså hela bär eller klasar i sluten tank under ett täcke av koldioxid. Tre veckors urlakning innan blandning av den must som runnit självmant, dvs ingen pressning. Utjäsning och nio månaders lagring i tank innan buteljering utan föregående klarning eller filtrering.

"The "Red" of Domaine de Kalathas consists in this vintage in a blend of separately-fermented Koumariano (55%) and Mavro Potamisi (45%), in different medium or small-size stainless-steel vats where alternatively ferment hand-destemmed whole berries and selected whole clusters of the two varieties, undergoing carbonic and semi-carbonic macerations for three weeks and then assembled for malolactic fermentation, without pressing, being almost entirely jus-de-goutte. Released as a primeur in the 2018 vintage as early as two months after fermentation, and after a vat aging of nine months for the 2019 vintage, it is also adapted to ageing due to a gentle but satisfactory tannic extraction and keeps delivering a very crispy fruitiness over time. Thanks to its particular balance, it combines the depth of its structuring and at times unexpected alcohol (14% in 2018) with the drinkability of a much more Northern european red wine.

It is often associated with red meat, stews, roasts, Greek but also Italian classics including the limitless pasta and pizza dishes where nearly every flavour is supported by a wheat flour base. Here is also an example of Mediterranean drinkability which sacrifices nothing to the richness of taste while being entirely devoted to display the fluidity of the water, an old winemaker's dream."
Tillsatser:Inga tillsatser
Alkohol:14 %
Volymer:750ml
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